Thursday, October 29, 2015

Free Pattern / Patron gratuit : Cadboro Mitts

I'll get to these in a minute...


I’m going to overshare for a minute here AND whine about a first-world problem of mine (lucky you!)  My arthritis has gotten worse and I can no longer wear cute shoes. Walking in even the most boat-like orthopedic sneakers (the ones with the velcro closures, people – VELCRO!) hurts my feet.  I’m quite vain so I’ll occasionally still wear the shoes or boots I can’t bear to give away, take some NSAIDS and pop the heating pad in the microwave.  And then as I walk gingerly on my privileged 30-something achy joints on a cold and rainy Toronto morning I pass people wrapped in sleeping bags wearing plastic bags over their feet and nothing on their painful arthritic hands. Toronto is a great city and I’m so grateful that I’ve had reason to commute daily to the downtown core for 4 years now. But after all this time my heart doesn’t break any less at the contrast of fancy wing-tip leather shoes walking past a paper collection cup.

J’aimerais prendre un moment pour prêter la parole à mon petit côté pleurnichard et me plaindre d’un bobo à la fois anodin et insignifiant. Mon arthrite a pris un mauvais tournant récemment et je n’arrive plus à porter des souliers tendance. Marcher dans les souliers les plus orthopédiques (même ceux  avec bandes de velcro à la place de lacets!) est devenu inconfortable. La vanité me convainc parfois à porter un talon tout de même, gobant de l’ibuprofène d’une main et plaçant le coussin chauffant dans le four à micro-onde de l’autre. Et c’est en marchant délicatement sur mes articulations enflées  vers le bureau à Toronto que je croise régulièrement des gens sur le trottoir avec rien qu’un sac de couchage, les pieds recouverts de sacs de plastique et rien du tout pour réchauffer leurs mains arthritiques. Ça fait 4 ans maintenant que je me rends quotidiennement au centre-ville et mon cœur ne se fend pas moins chaque fois que j’aperçois le contraste cruel de souliers en cuir italien passant tout droit à côté d’un gobelet en carton d’un sans-abri.




Have you heard of Chase the Chill? It’s yarn bombing with a philanthropic twist. Handknits are hung across the city with tags that say something along the lines of “I’m not lost. If you are cold, I’m yours. I was made for you to take.” There are chapters all over Canada and the U.S., even as far as England and Australia! For more information on Chase The Chill, you can go to www.chasethechill.com. And if you’re looking for a free pattern to knit up a pair of mitts for charity, you’re welcomed to this one. Cadboro Mitts are based on my Cadboro Tam and while far from perfect (some pretty inelegant decreases, for one) they have a pretty neat texture; the garter stitch makes them stretchy and rather warm.

Connaissez-vous Chase the Chill? C’est du tricot-graffiti à saveur philanthropique. Des items tricotés sont accrochés un peu partout à travers la ville avec des étiquettes invitant ceux qui en ont besoin à s’en servir. Il existe des filiales un peu partout au Canada et aux États-Unis et il y en a même en Angleterre et en Australie! Et si vous cherchez un patron de mitaines gratuit pour tricoter pour les plus démunis je vous propose celui-ci (en anglais seulement pour l’instant, désolée). Le design est inspiré du béret Cadboro et donne une mitaine à la fois élastique et bien chaude grâce au point mousse.  J’avoue que les diminutions ne sont pas très sophistiquées mais ces petites noppes délicates m’apportent tant de bonheur!



Cadboro Mitts

Size : One size. Fits a woman’s large hands. Go up or down needle sizes and yarn grist for a larger or a smaller mitten.

Materials:

- Worsted weight yarn, approximately 200 yards. I used the lovely Buckaloo View Worsted, this one is naturally dyed a soft celery green shade with hollyhock.
- Size US5 (3.75mm) double pointed needles
- Size US6 (4mm) double pointed needles
- 3 stitch markers (it is helpful if two are of the same color to mark thumb gusset and one of a different color to mark beginning of row)
- Tapestry needle

Gauge:

21 sts and 20 rows over 4 inches square in stockinette stitch using larger needles.

Abbreviations:

k: knit
p: purl
kfb: knit in the front and back of the same stitch
pfp: purl in the front and back of the same stitch
k2tog: knit two stitches together
p2tog: purl two stitches together
pm: place marker
sm: slip marker
sl: slip
st(s): stitch(es)
 (sl3, p1, psso) : slip 3 stitches purlwise, p1, pass the 3 slipped stitches one at a time over the last purled stitch
(sl3, k1, psso) : slip 3 stitches knitwise, k1, pass the 3 slipped stitches one at a time over the last knit stitch

Important notes:

There are differences between the right and the left mitten.

For the right mitten
- The wrong side will be facing you as you work;
- The first round of a mini bobble row will be on a purl round;
- When the mitten is finished, it needs to be turned inside out.
For the left mitten:
- The right side will be facing you as you work;
- The first round of a mini bobble row will be on a knit round;
- When the mitten is finished, do not turn it inside out.


Instructions

Right Mitten:

Using US 5 (3.75mm) double pointed needles, cast on 38 stitches. Being careful not to twist, join to work in the round. Place marker to mark beginning of round. Work in (k1, p1) rib for 18 rounds or approximately 2.5 inches.
Change to US6 DPNS and:

Round 1: purl.
Round 2: kfb in the first st, then knit to end of round. 39 sts.
Round 3: purl
Round 4: k1, pm, kfb, k1, pm, knit to end of round. 40 sts.
Round 5: purl
Round 6: knit                   
Round 7: purl to 2nd marker, move marker, (k1, p1, k1, p1) into next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11.
Round 8: k1, m, kfb, k1, kfb, m, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11.
Rounds 9-11: work in garter stitch (purl one round, knit one round, purl one round).
Round 12: k1, m, kfb, k3, kfb, m, knit to end.
Rounds 13-15: work in garter stitch (purl one round, knit one round, purl one round).
Round 16: k1, m, kfb, k5, kfb, m, knit to end.
Round 17: p to 2nd marker, m, p6, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p5.
Round 18: k to 2nd marker, m, k6, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k5.
Round 19: purl
Round 20:  k1, m, kfb, k7, kfb, m, knit to end.
Round 21-23: work in garter stitch (purl one round, knit one round, purl one round).
Round 24:  k1, m, kfb, k9, kfb, m, knit to end
Round 25: purl
Round 26: knit
Round 27: p to 2nd marker, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11.
Round 28: k1, m, kfb, k11, kfb, m, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11.
Round 29: purl.
Round 30: knit.
Round 31: p1, place 15 thumb sts between markers on a stitch holder, p to end.
Rounds 32-36: continue working in garter stitch
Round 37: p7, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p5.
Round 38: k7,  (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k5.
Rounds 39-46: continue working in garter stitch.
Round 47: p1, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11, (k1, p1, k1, p1) in next stitch, p11.
Round 48: k1, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11, (sl3, k1, psso), k11.
Rounds 49-56: continue working in garter stitch
Round 57: As round 37
Round 58: As round 38
Rounds 59-66: continue working in garter stitch
Round 67: as round 47
Round 68: as round 48
Round 69: (k2, k2tog) to end of round, k1.
Round 70: purl
Round 60: (k2, k2tog) to end of round
Round 61: purl.
Round 62: (k2, k2tog) to end of round, k1.
Round 63: purl
Round 64: (k2tog) to end of round
Cut yarn, with tapestry needle draw yarn through remaining 11 sts and pull to close.

Thumb:

Transfer stitches from stitch holder onto US6 DPNs and join yarn.
Knit one round, making sure to pick up 3 stitches along the gap where the thumb joins the mitten. 18 sts.
Work in garter stitch for 18 rounds. Try on mitten to make sure thumb is nearly covered.
Begin decreasing:
Round 1: (k2, k2tog) to the last two stitches, k2.
Round 2: purl.
Round 3:  (k2, k2tog) to end.
Round 4: purl.
Round 5: k2tog to end.
Cut yarn, with tapestry needle draw yarn through remaining stitches and pull to close.
** Weave in ends then TURN MITTEN INSIDE-OUT. **

Left Mitten:

Using US 5 (3.75mm) double pointed needles, cast on 38 stitches. Being careful not to twist, join to work in the round. Place marker to mark beginning of round. Work in (k1, p1) rib for 18 rounds or approximately 2.5 inches.

Change to US6 needles and :

Round 1: kfb in the first st, then knit to end of row. 39 sts.
Round 2: purl
Round 3: knit
Round 4: p1, pm, kfb, p1, pm, purl to end of round. 3 sts between markers, 40 stitches total.
Round 5: knit
Round 6: purl
Row 7: k to 2nd marker, m, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11,
(k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11
Row 8: p1, m, pfb, p1, pfb, m, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p11,  (sl3, p1, psso), p11.
Rows 9-11: continue to work in garter stitch (knit one round, purl one round, knit one round).
Row 12: p1, m, pfb, p3, pfb, m, p to end.
Rows 13-15: continue to work in garter stitch (knit one round, purl one round, knit one round).
Row 16: p1, m, pfb, p5, pfb, m, p to end.
Row 17: k to 2nd marker, k6, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k5.
Row 18: p to 2nd marker, p6, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p11,  (sl3, p1, psso), p5.
Row 19: knit
Row 20: p1, m, pfb, p7, pfb, m, p to end.
Rows 21-23: continue to work in garter stitch (knit one round, purl one round, knit one round).
Row 24: p1, m, pfb, p9, pfb, m, p to end.
Row 25: knit
Row 26: purl
Row 27: k to 2nd marker, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11,
(k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, k11.
Row 28: p1, m, pfb, p11, pfb, m, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p11.
Row 29: knit
Row 30: purl
Row 31: knit 1, remove marker, place 15 stitches on stitch holder, knit to end of round.
Rounds 32-36: continue working in garter stitch.
Row 37: k7, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, knit 11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, knit 11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, knit 5.
Row 38: p6, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p5.
Rounds 39-46: continue working in garter stitch.
Row 47: k1, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, knit 11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, knit 11, (k1,p1,k1,p1) in next stitch, knit 11.
Row 48: p1, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p11, (sl3, p1, psso), p11.
Rounds 49-56: continue working in garter stitch.
Round 57: As round 37.
Round 58: As round 38
Rounds 59-66: continue working in garter stitch.
Round 67: as round 47
Round 68: as round 48.
Round 69: (p2, p2tog) to end of round, p1.
Round 70: knit
Round 60: (p2, p2tog) to end of round.
Round 61: knit
Round 62: (p2, p2tog) to end of round, p1.
Round 63: knit
Round 64: (p2tog) to end of round.
Cut yarn, with tapestry needle draw yarn through remaining 11 sts and pull to close.

Thumb:

Transfer stitches from stitch holder onto US6 DPNs and join yarn.
Purl one round, making sure to pick up 3 stitches along the gap where the thumb joins the mitten. 18 sts.
Work in garter stitch for 18 rounds. Try on mitten to make sure thumb is nearly covered.
Begin decreasing:
Round 1: (p2, p2tog) to the last two stitches, p2.
Round 2: knit
Round 3:  (p2, p2tog) to end.
Round 4: knit
Round 5: p2tog to end.
Cut yarn, with tapestry needle draw yarn through remaining stitches and pull to close. Weave on ends.